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Backgammon Dictionary
Introduction to
Backgammon
Luck or Skill?
Improving Your Game
Using the Doubling
Cube
Chouettes
melBG -our
Backgammon Club
Backgammon Dictionary
#applies to all forms of the game
Tapplies to
tournament play
Cvery common
$money games only
Ooptional rule - ask before playing
Automatic Double ("auto")
$O
The cube is turned once each time the opening dice throws result in a
double. Example: if the players start by rolling 33, 66, 11, then 53, the
cube will start on 8, thus multiplying the basic stake 8 times.
Back Game *
A player who falls behind in the race may decide he can't win with
better dice, and decide to make points in the opponents home board, hoping
to hit his opponent and keep him on the bar while he brings his men home.
Requires a high level of skill to execute, and often results in the loss of
a gammon.
Bar ("the bar") *
Where checkers go when they're hit. Equivalent to point number 0. No
checker can move while the player has a man on the bar.
Bar Point
My 7 point is my bar point.
Backgammon
A triple game. At the end, the loser has a man on the bar or in his home
board, and has not borne a man off. quite rare.
Bear-off
The process of removing men from the board at the end of the game. A
player wins by being the first to bear off all his men.
Beaver $O
An immediate redouble, whereby the player who is doubled immediately
turns the cube again, while retaining possession of the cube
Blot
A single checker, ie one which is vulnerable.
Break
As in "to break a prime". A move which reduces the size of a prime which
is impeding the progress of the opponent's pieces.
Chouette $
A special form of the game, usually for money, where several players
play against each other using a single board.
Cocked ("cocked dice")
Thrown dice which are not lying flat or which ended up outside the
permitted area. Minor imperfections in the playing surface are usually
overlooked.
Contact
A contact position is one whether there remains the possibility of a
piece being hit and sent to the bar.
Crawford
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Dance
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Diversify
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Double (I)
A roll where both numbers are the same. The player must play that number
4 times.
Double (II)
An offer to double the value of the game. The opponent may drop or take,
or beaver if club rules allow.
Drop
To decline a double, losing the number of points indicated by the cube
Enter
To play a man off the bar
Equity
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Gammon
A double game, achieved when the loser has not yet borne even one man
off.
Home Board
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Jacoby Rule
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Outer Board
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Pip
One space on the board. When you move a man 5 spaces, you have moved it
5 pips, and your pipcount decreases by 5.
Pipcount
A measure of how "far" you are from winning the game. Each piece has a
pip-value between 1 and 24 depending on its board location. The total of
those values is the pipcount. The lower the number, the quicker you will
likely get you men into your home board and starting bearing off.
Point
2 men in the same place, making them safe from attack.
Point On
To hit a blot with 2 of your men, forming a point.
Prime
A consecutive sequence of points, making it hard for the opposing pieces
to get past. A 6 point prime is impassable, while 5, 4, or broken (with
gaps) primes can be very powerful too.
Race
In a game where there is no or minimal contact, the winner is the one
who rolls the best dice. The race is on!
Raccoon
Your opponent has beavered, and you think he's nuts. Raccoon!
Depending on club rules, the sky's the limit ...
Rollout
To evaluate a position by playing many games starting from that layout.
Usually peformed by computer programs.
Run
To elect to run for home rather than leave a point or blot inside your
opponent's home board (see "stay")
Slot
To place a blot in the middle of the enemy checkers, hoping to reduce
his freedom of action and perhaps score a hit.
Split
A more or less risky play which moves a man from a safe point to form a
blot, usually for the purpose of maximising the chance to hit the opponent.
Stack
The pile up checkers on one or more points.
Stay
To elect to leave a point or blot inside your opponent's home board,
hoping to get a shot (see "run")
Steaming
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Take
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Timing
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Beginners Guide to
Backgammon
Backgammon is a two-player game, and is basically a race. Dice rolls
determine the moves each player can make. Rather than being a simple speed
contest, there are many strategies players can employ to win the game. The
player who first brings all the pieces to the finish line is the winner.
More about that later.
The backgammon board has 24 positions or points. Each player numbers the
points in order so that 24 is the farthest away, 1 the closest. A player's "home board"
comprises points 1-6. Points are usually referred to by number. My the "5
point" is in my home board, and is the "20 point" for my opponent.
A few points have special names, such as the "bar point" or the "mid point".
At the start of each game, each player rolls one die until different numbers come up.
To be legal, dice must lie flat on the board, and be on the players right. The player
who rolled the
higher number has first move, using both the numbers rolled. When the player is
satisfied with the move, he picks up the dice, and then it's the other
player's turn. Illegal plays are handled in various ways, depending on club
rules.
Moving around the board
Backgammon pieces are variously referred to as men, pieces, or
checkers. Checkers are moved forward the number of pips indicated
by the dice, with each number being played separately.
If the player rolls a "double", that number is played 4 times.
If only one number can be legally moved, then the larger must be used.
Both numbers must be played if at all possible.
The numbers may be played in either order.
Pieces can land either on vacant points, or on points occupied by 1 enemy
piece, which is sent all the way back to the beginning (hitting). Hit pieces
are placed on the bar, which is the ridge running down the middle of the
board.
Any number which cannot be legally played is ignored.
If a player has a piece on the bar, that piece must be moved first.
If that piece cannot be played (because all the points corresponding to the
dice numbers have 2 or more opposing pieces on them), then the player must
forfeit his turn.
Luck or skill?
Arguments rage over whether backgammon is primarily a game of skill, or
mainly luck? The argument goes, that since backgammon is based on random dice, it
must be largely luck. This is incorrect! Most games incorporate random
elements, with only a few (chess, go) with no random component at all.
Does anyone claim that bridge, for example, is simply a game of luck?
I
prefer the following criterion: If an "expert" can be reasonably confident
of defeating a "weaker player" over the long or medium term in a
certain game, then the skill
factor is paramount. If the result is essentially unpredictable, ie the
weaker player regularly beats the "expert", then we must conclude that since the
expert's skill has little effect, the game is primarily luck.
If you accept this, then you must accept that backgammon and poker are
definitely games of skill, while bridge is mainly luck.
Bridge a game of luck????
I used to be a keen rubber and tournament bridge player. (Quite a few years
ago, I was privileged to rub shoulders with some of the world's top players,
while not pretending to be anywhere near their level. I occasionally played
with icons such as Rixi Markus). Any experienced bridge pair will tell you
that given good cards, they will beat world champions. Give them 2
consecutive hands with over 26 points, and the rubber is in the bag! Seat a poker expert
at a table with 5 mediocre players, and at the end of the evening s/he is
almost guaranteed to have won all their money. Similarly, a backgammon expert is
very unlikely to lose to a much weaker player over the course of a 9-point
match.
Some tips for playing
a better game
Using the doubling
cube
Club Etiquette
Every tournament and club has its own "house rules". Our club, melBG,
is no exception.
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Bearing off
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The winner is the player who is
first to remove all the checkers from the board. Pieces can be "borne off"
only when all the pieces are in the player's home board (points 1-6). Here
are the rules pertaining to bearing off.
You may always bear off a man from the point corresponding to a
rolled die.
The rule about playing the higher number still applies).
If there is no piece on a point corresponding to a rolled number, he must
first make a legal
move from a higher point. However, if all his pieces are on lower-numbered
points, he must bear off from the highest-number point where he still has a
piece.
Note that these rules allow quite a bit of discretion. For example, say a
player is bearing off, and has only one checker on the 6 point. If she rolls
6-1, she can legally play that piece to the 5 point, and then bear it off.
This is because she has played both numbers, and she is allowed to play them
in either order.
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Single games,
gammons, backgammons. |
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Backgammon is played with a doubling cube (the "cube"),
which shows the value of the game in points. The game is over when one
player has borne off all 15 pieces. There are 3 possible situations.
If the opponent has borne off one or more pieces, the winner wins a "single
game", worth the value of the cube.
If the opponent has all 15 men on the board, with no men in his home board
or on the bar, it is a gammon or double game, worth twice the cube value.
Gammons are quite common.
If the opponent has all 15 men on the board, and at least one man in his
home board or on the bar, it is a backgammon or triple game, worth three
times the cube value. This is a relatively rare occurrence. |
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The doubling cube
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All serious backgammon is played using the doubling cube,
which is a special outsized die whose faces are numbered 2,4,8,16,32,64.
Knowing how to use the cube properly is critical to becoming a competent
player.
Backgammon is played for stakes, whether for money or not. Either the
players play a series of games, keeping tabs on the result (know as "money
games" whether or not actual money is at stake), or they can playing until
one playing has accumulated the agreed number of points (eg "match to 7
points").
At the outset the game value is one point and the doubling cube
conventionally placed in the middle, showing 64. As play progresses, a player
may double his opponent, ie propose that the game continue for twice the stake. The opponent
may concede, losing the number of points shown on the cube prior to the
double, or "take" the double so that the game continues for the new doubled
value. If the cube is taken, it is moved next to the player who accepted the
double. A player may not double twice in a row.
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Money games
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After each game the loser pays the winner the agreed stake multiplied by the
value of the cube, with gammons and backgammons taken into account. In money
games, there can only be a gammon or backgammon if someone has doubled and
been accepted (the Jacoby rule).
Where club rules allow, there may be additional rules, over and above the
classic tournament rules. Always clarify these before starting any game
where money is involved, as these rules can lead to unpleasant consequences
to the unwary loser. Ask about Automatic doubles, and beavers.
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Match or Tournament Play
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The winner of a match is the first to accumulate a specified number of
points. Gammons and backgammons are counted whether or not someone has
doubled. No beavers or automatic doubles. The Crawford rule is almost
invariably used. The first time on player arrives within 1 point of winning
the match, his opponent may not double during that game only.
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Tips on effective use of
the doubling cube |
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Watch this space! |
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